YOUR VOYAGE THROUGH THE PRIME WINE REGIONS OF NEW SPAIN
To see a map of the wine producing regions in Spain credited with Denominacion de Origen status, please click on the thumbnail image of the map which will then display fully on your screen.
The arched entrance to the portico square in Pesquera
RIBERA DEL DUERO
The home of Vega Sicilia, Ribera del Duero is arguably the most famous Spanish Wine region along with Rioja, Jerez and Cava. Due to the region's altitude (vineyards planted at 750-850 metres), the temperature contrast between day and night is extreme thus requiring meticulous care of the vines and resulting in a relatively slow grape maturity process.
The predominant grape grown is Tinta del Pais, a close relation of the famous Tempranillo grape. Due to the unique climate, the winemakers extol the virtues of their carefully nurtured grapes, claiming that Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is quite different and displays special characteristics compared to the same grape grown in neighbouring Rioja.
Today, wines from this region are respected worldwide for their quality and are recognised as among the finest in Spain. This, however, is reflected in the price, though the huge steps taken by other winemaking regions to produce quality wines has resulted in more modest pricing in Ribera del Duero.
This is red wine country and superb young wines are produced with exceptional fruit and delicious flavours which predominate to the nose. Aged wines are carefully nurtured in American and French barricas adding that special dimension of vanilla and spice.
Autumn vines in La Rioja
LA RIOJA
This is the best known of all Spanish wine regions and the first to be credited by the ConsejoRegulador when it was established in 1926 to control production and quality. Rioja is also the first region to achieve the status of Denominacion de Origen Calificada, or DOCa, reserved for wines of the highest quality.
This famous wine area is separated into three sub regions, Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja. Climate affects the wine styles from each, with the Rioja Alta and Alavesa producing the more delicate wines and focusing on the Tempranillo grape. Rioja Baja wines are made with a high percentage of Garnacha due to the hotter climate in this more eastern area.
The new generation of winemakers in La Rioja are well aware of the excellent wines coming out of lesser known Spanish wine growing areas. Rioja wines are being created in line with current consumer tastes, resulting in contemporary styles ranging from new-wave, barrel fermented whites with hints of oak to superb, deep noble reds full of complex flavours and spicy oak aromas.
Whilst bodegas abound in Rioja and well known brands continue to dominate, speciality, so called 'boutique' wines are growing in number as creative, modern winemakers blend the best features of old styles with newer techniques designed to enhance the essential flavours of the fruit itself. The resulting wines are truly extraordinary.
The river Duero at Toro
TORO
This region takes its name from the delightful country town of Toro and is rapidly establishing itself as one of the most exciting wine-producing areas in Spain, consistently challenging the very best reds the country has to offer. Indeed, wine has been made here high on the plains north-west of Madrid and only some 40 km from the Portugese border since Roman times, such is the ideal soil and climate for growing grapes.
Over the centuries, many a pilgrim on the road to Santiago de Compostela will have travelled this route, sustained no doubt by Toro wines. The river Duero (which becomes the Douro when it enters Portugal) flows east to west bisecting the region, providing for the vineyards on its way.
The principal grape is the Tinta de Toro, a variety of Tempranillo, arguably the finest grape in Spain. At 600m altitude, with hot days and cool nights in the summer, the grape is able to concentrate its flavours, producing deep colour with intense fruit and tannins. Recent improvements in viticulture and winery investment have allowed this grape to show its true prowess, delivering powerful, balanced wines of unique character. Other authorised grape varieties include Garnacha, Verdejo and Malvasia.
Although good quality whites and rosados are made here, red wines are the benchmark with all categories from jovenes, crianzas through to reservas and gran reservas. Reds must contain at least 75% Tinta de Toro. These wines are rich, strong and complex and perhaps represent the most authentic of their type in Spain today.
TERRA ALTA
Spain's age-old Tarragona region, south-west of Barcelona, has long been a real insider's secret...a great hidden source of glorious, mature reds, far off the beaten track where wines have been made since Roman times.
Terra Alta, quite literally the high land, is a rugged landscape with ancient, hilly vineyards on a plateau some 500 metres above sea level due west inland from Tarragona city. Limestone soil with good drainage and the Mediterranean climate with continental influences produce excellent conditions for the growing of quality Tempranillo, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that form the backbone of the region's reds. At
this altitude, the vines benefit from hot sunny days and cool nights.
This creates small, intensely juicy grapes which are selected from the
oldest vines to produce extremely well priced Crianzas and Reservas.
As with neighbouring Priorat, Montsant and Tarragona, Terra Alta was a region of co-operative producers making strong, high alchohol wine in bulk. Today, these bodegas are using modern, state-of-the-art equipment resulting in superb, complex wines at highly competitive prices compared to their better known peers in North Spain. Terra Alta is the perfect example of the so-called New Spain - a region fast gaining international acclaim.
Spectacular Terra Alta - One of Spain's hidden gems
The Montsant massif
MONTSANT
Though located in a Mediterranean area some 50 km due west from the coastal city of Tarragona, the Montsant region is isolated by mountains forming a natural barrier to the sea thus giving the effectof a mild continental climate. This provides dramatic contrasts between day and night temperatures, which coupled with the humid sea breezes, benefits considerably the grape development.
The Montsant and Priorat regions are often described as a doughnut, with Montsant surrounding Priorat, the doughnut centre. The landscape is stunning with small terraced vineyards, olive and almond orchards nestling on the mountain slopes, and the dramatic, massif Montsant (holy mountain) dominating the skyline. Whilst the Priorat region has attained international fame with correspondingly high prices, Montsant has very similar climatic and soil conditions for growing vines, and produces superb wines in the same style at far more acceptable prices.
The wines from the region originate from Roman times, Tarragona province being the centre for Roman occupation of Spain. In the new era of stainless steel and modern winemaking technology, combined with the perfect terroir, individual entrepreneurs and winemakers descended on the region with the subsequent growth of small, individualistic bodegas producing a range of high quality, diversely blended wines.
The predominant grape varieties are Garnacha, Carinena and Tempranillo, with increasing use of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in blended wines. Old Garnacha and Carinena vines, many over 80 years old and producing only one kilo of grapes per vine (i.e. roughly one bottle of wine) are used to produce the top wines from the region.
Albariño - Spain's world renowned white grape
RIAS BAIXAS
The Rias Baixas, literally meaning lower estuaries, lies in the north-west corner of Spain in the most lush and green of all regions, Galicia. The wine area is centred on the province of Pontevedra, partly bordering the Atlantic coast and partly the Portugese border to the south along the river Mino.
The region wines have been acclaimed for centuries and are made primarily from the Albarino grape, indigenous to Galicia and also northern Portugal where it is known as Alvarinho. Other white grape varieties grown are Treixadura, Caino, and Loureira.
The climate is clearly influenced by the Atlantic, characterised by its moderate temperatures and plentiful rainfall though with sufficient sunshine for successful grape growing. The challenge facing farmers is the enormous care required to cultivate the vines in such adverse climatic conditions where mould, weed growth and fungal disease are a constant factor. Due to the prevalence of such labour intensive farming and the abundance of small vineyards and bodegas, the wines tend to sell at premium prices.
Albarino is a relatively scarce grape which, coupled with is low yield, has resulted in its coveted reputation. The delicious Albarino wines are aromatic and fresh with a full crisp taste; they have gained almost cult status worldwide and are recognised as being arguably the finest white wines in Spain and ranked among the best in the world. Galicia is renowned for its excellent seafood and thanks to nature's grand design, the convenient Albarino grape provides the perfect match.
Verdejo vines on the Rueda plateau
RUEDA
Located in north west Spain just south of Valladolid, the vineyards of Rueda lie on a high plateau of the Duero river at an altitude of 600-700 metres, adjacent to the provinces of Avila and Segovia. The continental climate of cold winters and short, hot summers with a dramatic temperature change between day and night provides the ideal conditions for grape cultivation.
In Rueda, the white Verdejo grape reigns supreme. A unique, indigenous Spanish grape, Verdejo has now achieved international status, producing arguably the finest white wines in Spain along with the aromatic Albarinos. Other white grapes grown are Sauvignon Blanc, Viura and Palomino, though Verdejo accounts for around 60% of production.
There are probably three leading candidates for the classic white wine of Spain: Penedes whites from Catalunya, wines made from the Albarino grape in Galicia and the Verdejo varietal from Rueda. It all depends on personal taste but the crisp, fresh, aromatic Verdejo is clearly one of the strongest contenders.
Dramatic views on the Ruta de Santiago, Bierzo
BIERZO
Bierzo D.O. lies in the north west of Spain, just on the edge of Galicia. It is in a hollow surrounded by mountains, the principal wine towns being Cacabelos and Villafranca del Bierzo.
Although sheltered by the mountains, it is influenced by the Atlantic, making the climate somewhere between the rain and humidity typical of temperate Galicia and the dry heat of continental Spain. Consequently, the wines are of a particular style, being halfway between the light, fruity styles of Galicia and the heavyweights of the Duero valley to the south east. The climate is in fact very similar to Rioja, with excellent alluvial, sand and granite, and slate soils for growing vines. Vines are grown at around 600m above sea level in a mix of terraces and slopes.
The scenery in Bierzo is particularly beautiful, verdant whilst mountainous and punctuated with ravines, such as the important Rio Sil and its tributaries, along whose banks the bulk of the vines are planted. The Romans were very active in this region, mining gold amongst others (see Bodegas Castro Bergidum below) and presumably making wine of some description. It is also one of the last stops on the St James Way for pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela.
Only relatively recently has Bierzo become a recognised quality wine producing region, with the formation of Bierzo D.O. in 1989. Realising the potential offered by the excellent natural conditions, they set about focusing on quality wine production using the indigenous grape varieties of Mencia (thought to have been Cabernet Franc brought by French monks on pilgrimage) for red wines and Godello for fragrant, elegant, whites. Other permitted varieties include Tempranillo, Garnacha Tintorera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia and Dona Blanca. However it is the two key indigenous varietals which give the Bierzo wines uniqueness and typicity.
This is a region as yet relatively undiscovered, with Spanish wine enthusiasts keeping these sophisticated Mencia based reds and Godello whites mostly to themselves. However, it is a region with fantastic potential internationally, a fact already recognised by the more attuned wine commentators such as Parker who rates many Bierzo wines with over 90 points.
Spectacular Roman amphitheatre in Tarragona
TARRAGONA
D.O. Tarragona is one of the most extensive wine regions of Catalunya and its oldest wine denomination. The city of Tarragona itself was the Roman capital of Hispania Tarraconensis and the region wines were prized as far back as these classical times, when they were exported to Rome. Located along the Mediterranean coast in the south of Tarragona province, yet extending inland to altitudes approaching 400 metres, the region is endowed with an ideal climate and soil to produce young red, white and rosé wines as well as sweet dessert wines. Vineyards also extend from the Ebro estuary inland benefiting from a fertile subsoil and average annual temperatures of 16C. Climate in general in the region is very benign with hardly any frosts and dry summers.
Three principal varieties of white grapes are grown in the region, Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca and Pedro Ximenez whilst 5 red grape varieties predominate Garnacha Tinta, Carinena, Ull de Llebre (the local name for Tempranillo) plus the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Around 70% of production is of young white wine, of which the majority is destined for Cava. The whites are beautifully fresh, crisp and dry – ideal drinking in the hot summer months. Red wine production is in the ascendancy, particularly young full bodied reds, but as bodegas develop their ageing facilities, some excellently priced quality Crianzas and Reservas are produced predominantly with Tempranillo, Garnacha and a touch of Merlot or Cabernet.
Typical barren terrain of Jumilla hosting ancient Monastrell vines
JUMILLA
This inland region in the south east of Spain is high and dry and synonymous with the indigenous Monastrell grape which shapes the character of many of the region wines.Recent replantings together with new investment in wine making equipment and the resulting sensitive treatment of this grape, from vitification through vinification, has in the last 15 years transformed the reputation of a region once regarded as bulk producer to one of quality fit for the most discerning of export markets.
Monastrell grown in the right conditions and properly handled produces rich, deeply coloured, full-bodied wines, bursting with fruit flavour. Vineyards are planted between 500 to 1000 metres in sandy soil over limestone, often amongst almond trees and olive groves. As well as Monastrell (over 85% of all vineyards) other red varieties such as Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah, Cabernet and Melot are grown. However, the native Monastrell remains very much the signature grape of this region.
Low rainfall and wide diurnal temperature variation provide perfect conditions for ripening the vines, many ungrafted and over 70 years old, resulting in low yielding but highly concentrated fruit, high in alcohol and tannins. No less an authority than Robert Parker, the American wine critic, has recognised the potential of Jumilla wines, by declaring it as one of the key quality wine producing regions for the future.
An interesting peculiarity of Jumilla region is its production of the most excellent dulce (sweet, dessert style) red and white wines, from the Monastrell and Moscatel grapes respectively.
The lush Penedés Cava producing region
CAVA Unlike wines from D.O.s such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Cava is not a delineated geographical region as such. In fact Cava can (in theory) come from anywhere in Spain, provided the vineyard is listed, the wine is made with specified, approved grape varietals and in a particular way i.e. the traditional method of producing a sparkling wine by fermentation in the bottle. The French call this methode champenoise. Thus the simple, intrinsic difference between Cava and Champagne is of provenance and grapes used.
In practice, 95% of Cava is made in Catalunya, and most of that in and around the towns of Sant Sadurni and Vilafranca del Penedes, south west of Barcelona. Grapes used are restricted to the indigenous Parellada, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Malvasia and/or Chardonnay. For pink sparklers, or Cava Rosat, Monastrell and/or Garnacha can be used. For these reasons in particular, Cava does not taste exactly like Champagne, nor does it aspire to or pretend to be, preferring to have an individual style of its own and often preferred to its illustrious neighbour.
By law, Cava must spend at least 9 months in bottle maturing, with Reservas spending 18 months and Gran Reservas 30 months minimum. The result is a fresh, citrousy, bubbly wine, now renowned the world over. Cava is produced in a range of dryness/sweetness from Brut Nature (bone dry), to Brut (dry) right up to Semiseco (medium sweet).
